An Island Tale

On the Eastern Caribbean paradise known as Mustique, every man and woman is an island – or at least a big part of it.
By David Tyda

In no realm can the soul of a place be destroyed more than in the highest-end real estate developments. Our tireless search for world-class amenities often leads us to places luxurious, sure, but also sometimes to places that lack character or originality. This unfortunate situation couldn’t be further from what you’ll find on the island of Mustique.

This year marks the 40th anniversary of Mustique, a vision that was a little bit real estate and a little bit vacation with less than 100 residences and villas. Toucan Hill became a STRATOS favorite.

This year the south Caribbean island celebrates 40 years since the original vision of Colin Tennant – a vision that was a little bit real estate and a little bit vacation – took root and grew into a piece of property broken into just over 100 residential lots. Maybe for the original Mustique purchasers, the charm came from the opportunity to build a home at the intersection of the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, on an island that would remain free from major commercial development. But now, for the people who purchase existing villas – usually with a price tag that averages somewhere between $15 million and $45 million – or rent them for weeks at a time, the charm comes from the soul of an island that has remained pure and retained its original character.

“When you look at Mustique 40 years ago, this was very much a ‘candlelit’ kind of place,” says Managing Director Roger Pritchard. “And we’ve tried to retain that identity, so adding something like a golf course would change that vibe.” Pritchard points out that the small and sparse signage around the island helps keep things intimate and “less resort-y.”

Which is not to say that golf can’t be had. Or spa treatments. Or that you won’t be waited on hand and foot (or left alone if you so choose). Mustique operates like this: Most of the 75-plus homes on the island are placed in a rental program that’s paid for in weekly tariffs that range from about $5,000 to $50,000. Each has a live-in staff employed by the homeowner so your weekly fee always includes a cook, housekeeping, and gardening staff.

When STRATOS contributing editor David Tyda arrived on Mustique, he was received in the home of Brian Alexander on the eve of his retirement as managing director on the island.

Top staff in some homes was trained at prestigious butler schools while others were sent for culinary training at places like the French Culinary Institute. One villa owner even had his butler experience all that Mustique has to offer—from the spa to the restaurants to the water sports—so he could speak fluently to guests about these activities.

To keep villa identities straight, each one has a name rather than an address (Grasshopper, Indigo, Callaloo, etc.). Renting a villa allows for access to The Cotton House, the island’s boutique resort. Ironically, The Cotton House is not a single house and, in our opinion, not much like a resort—it’s so much more. Comprised of a small cluster of distinct buildings that have been divided up into a charming collection of duplex suites, stand-alone villas, and single rooms, The Cotton House is where the resort’s spa, fitness, and watersports can be found. Villa owners and renters mingle with Cotton House guests by day at the beachside cafe and later in the bar of Veranda restaurant.

The accommodations at Cotton House seem better suited for singles or couples stopping on Mustique for shorter vacations. Having the resort’s amenities mere steps away is the only thing that makes the Cotton House experience feel more like a resort and less like someone’s home. Rates can drop below $600 per night or tip closely to $5,000, depending on season and size.

Although villa guests usually book a “mule” (a golf cart-like car) for traveling around the island on their own, the two-bedroom residence at Cotton House comes with one (it also comes with one of the sweetest master bathrooms on the island with its sexy river rock clad wall surrounding an egg-shaped soaking tub on three sides).

If you’re on the island on a Tuesday night, head to the Cotton House for the weekly cocktail hour where villa owners, renters, and Cotton House guests all get together to enjoy the cross breezes, a glass of champagne, and the sounds of a live piano player who keys everything from old-timey saloon rhythms to covers of Led Zeppelin.

Most guests take this opportunity to dine away from their villa on the candlelit veranda here. Oenophiles don’t even have to B.Y.O.B — our last glance at the wine list spotted a Chevalier Montrachet Bouchard Pere & Fils Cote de Beaune, a 1990 Chateau Mouton Rothschild Pauillac, and two Krugs — the Grand Cuvee and a ’98.

Villa Rentals Manager, Jeannette Cadet, notes that villas are chosen according to the trip’s purpose – romance, family get together, corporate getaway, etcetera – and style preferences rather than simply accommodating a number of bedrooms. “There is a literally a home built in almost every style on the island,” says Cadet. “From Moroccan to old-world English, modern Italian to Balinese, it’s all here. But there’s also one for every type of group,” she says.

Although some homes mimic a period style in an almost pop-up-book-like fashion, other homes feel a tad more experimental and dare we say, Modernist. Progressive architect Jack Diamond’s own home, Simplicity, can be rented for about $10,000 to $15,000, and it has one of the most sensible layouts on the island. Another of Diamond’s designs, Alumbrera, has been furnished by owners who, we’re guessing, are Swiss due to their ability to furnish interiors in accordance with his architectural program.

Hardcore Modernists and design lovers will dig the Wyler House, a horizontally nestled property designed by Architect Paolo Piva. The design blends a sense of Palm Springs angularity with Japanese minimalism resulting in clean interiors that accommodate the owner’s taste for modern art. Design aside, Wyler has easy access to the Cotton House and the island’s yachting port. (Architecturally referenced by Wyler’s round windows, we wonder?)

Some of our favorites and top recommendations include Toucan Hill — this Moroccan-themed estate took about 10 years to build not only due to the high level of detail in every corner, but the, well, high level. Toucan is so named due to its mountaintop site — “construction workers would play on the words ‘to can’ while making it up the hill,” says Patricia, the house manager, an ex-fashion merchandising professional who left the rat race to manage Toucan. Sure, the “to can” English doesn’t quite pan out, but that doesn’t detract from the home’s virtually 360 degrees of Ocean views, romantic two-top al fresco dining cove called the “passion pit,” or the mother of pearl and glass tiled dining room, where the table, floor, ceilings, and walls are all done in the same pattern.

Although Toucan is the highest home on Mustique, the owner bought the higher piece of land next door, to not only protect views, but ensure that Toucan’s “Mirador,” or “lookout point,” remain the most spectacular spot on Mustique. “At night, this property turns into a Moroccan magic land,” says Patricia. “We serve six-course Moroccan dinners and in some cases everyone dresses Moroccan.” That dinner, by the way, is served on one of the 21 sets of dishes owned by Toucan’s homeowner, many of them Lynn Chase and Hermes. This four-bedroom villa rents for about $35,000 per week.

Golf addicts should book Shogun, a Japanese/Balinese styled home with a 1-hole, 9-tee golf course set on a portion of the home’s five lush acres. Shogun is also perfect for groups of couples who are all pitching in for the weekly tariff – every bedroom feels “equal” so there’s no complaining amongst the group. It’s also one of the largest, able to accommodate up to 18 guests in the main house and adjacent cottages. Cadet loves Shogun because, “This one has some veneer to it,” she says. We love it because it can be booked as an entire estate or simply as a main 5-bedroom house. The weekly tariffs hover between $30,000 and $50,000. 

The dark woods and Balinese style of Shogun seem to be a natural fit for the island and another villa, Serenissima, was designed in similar tones with a similar layout — one that surrounds a sizeable courtyard pond. Because Serenissima is filled with exquisite Balinese antiques and the wood floors reflect like glass, the villa has a more refined air about it. But like Shogun, this villa is known for its democratic bedrooms – each has access a private verandah overlooking the island’s main beach, Macaroni.

The villa Ilanga will have home remodel types wreathing their hands in delight – design inspiration is abundant here. Take for instance the “poor man’s tile,” a method of giving concrete floors the appearance of sturdy tile by simply drawing lines in it as the material sets. This technique was employed by one of the island’s most prominent early architects, Oliver Wessel, and it can be seen in multiple homes around the island. You’ll also see Wessel’s signature “pickled lime” application to many of the villas’ tray ceilings. Back at Ilanga, check out the stucco walls that have been styled to look like coral. They’ll have you rethinking the exterior of your Desert Mountain home in no time.

Besides Shogun, larger parties often book the neighboring Messel-designed villas Clonsilla and Phibblestown. Connected by a doorway in the wall that separates the properties, the two-home option is perfect for multiple families traveling together. Phibblestown even has a cool, partially subterranean bedroom with four built-in bunk beds and adjacent nanny quarters for those traveling with many children. Of course, the homes can be reserved individually, but logistically, their side-by-side location can’t be beat. Both homes connect to the beach by private paths.

If you want to sleep like royalty, book Hibiscus, a five-bedroom, Tuscan-styled villa reserved by Prince William during his last visit to Mustique. Each bedroom is generously sized and private from your other housemates, and the twin gazebos and central infinity-edge swimming pool make great meeting points. If your party is booking multiple villas simultaneously, Hibiscus is the place to entertain then all. At night, the sound of waves are the only reminder that you’re not on an Italian hillside.

To get a better handle on the rental pool, start your research on the web, but budget a few hours for the initial browsing. You’ll surf past villas like Rosa dei Venti, with its private tennis court, and Lavender Hill, a villa that although is only available in the summer, would make old guard British feel right at home with its gilt-framed mirrors, floral textiles, detailed furnishings.

One thing you won’t find on the web: The Estate Collection. There are currently two homes available – Palm Beach and the Great House – for this distinguished traveler (meaning you). Weekly tariffs range from $100,000 to $150,000 and more information can be attained over the phone. 

When STRATOS visited Mustique, we were received in the home of Brian Alexander on the eve of his retirement as Managing Director on the island. After perusing this real life Lawrence of Arabia’s personal library of war and political theory books, as well as works by Paul Theroux and Tom Wolfe, we asked if his home would be placed in the rental pool now that he’ll be spending most of his time back in London. “Of course I will,” he says. (The home will likely fetch close to $20,000 per week in peak season thanks to its artifact-heavy interior and direct beach access.) Question number two: Where are all the private jets? “Our runway is only 3,100 feet. I wouldn’t recommend landing your Citation IV or V on it. But nearby Canouan Island’s runway is about 6,000 feet – long enough for a 737. Besides, 25 to 30 percent of our customers belong to programs like NetJets,” he says.

Another Option

If you visit and decide that a week or a month simply isn’t enough, call London’s Knight Frank and speak to Paddy Dring (+44 (0) 20 7861 1061; paddy.dring@knightfrank.com) about being placed on the waiting list for villa purchase. Our recommendation: Because Mustique is such a social island, put your impeccable networking skills to the test and try to snag a villa under the radar. (Cocktails at Cotton House anyone?) Only a couple villas change hands every year. So until then, you’ll have to rent. Pity.

STRATOS Details

Mustique
St. Vincent & Genadines
(784) 488-8000
www.mustique-island.com

FBO Info: Canouan Airport
SVG Grenada Air, (784) 456-5610